Sunday 25 November 2018

Bibbulmun track - 8th section - Walpole to Denmark

We left Walpole after a disturbed nights sleep; there was a ridiculous domestic row at our hostel and the police had to attend. It took them about 20 minutes to attend despite the police station being only 100 metres away.
Walpole inlet

Our walk out of walpole was much nicer with views towards the inlet and the coast, before leading us back into the forest. People may have gotten sick of us talking about the majestic Karri trees over the past few posts, be reassured we will finally stop talking about them. Instead I introduce you to the Tingle tree. Where the Karri are impressively tall, the Tingle are massively wide (up to 25 metres around) and also frankly ridiculous. Some of them are over 400 years old and as they become half destroyed by bushfires and fungus they hollow out into amazing structures. 
The Giant Tingle
We spent the day gawping at these trees from above and below as we also went on a tree top walk along swaying platforms 40 metres in the air.
Unusually intact tingle

Our second day on this section was incredibly varied. We started in tingle forest, then gravitated towards some slightly eerie burnt woods where all the trees were dead, leaving a low level of regenerating grass. We then travelled through sand dunes with wildflowers to the rugged beach, where we could really appreciate the power of the southern ocean. As an added bonus to the day we finished at peaceful bay - a caravan park with showers and a fish and chip shop!

Our third day was been more coastal and therefore more undulating. It felt like one of the harder days on the track, where one step up meant half a step back as we slid down the sand dunes. The flies also have a strong presence in the open heathland meaning our head nets were yet again essential. We were rewarded for our efforts with another 'proper' campsite, meaning that we could have showers two days running - luxury!
Sunrise on Parry beach
Knowing that the rain was coming in in force on for our final day into Denmark we elected to get up early (for sunrise, to be exact) to walk for as long possible in the dry. Difficult as it was to get up, the sunrise was glorious and we about 5 hours of walking in before the weather front hit us going down mount Hallowell. We arrived in Denmark sodden but pleased for the luxury of a bed.
View down into Denmark before the rain properly came in
It's odd what we've missed and haven't really noticed on this trip. Our number one luxury is a hot shower, they feel so amazing at the end of a section. Chairs with backs are also a longed for treat. We have also gotten sick of food that can be cooked on our stove, mainly boiled carbs - pasta, rice, noodles & cous cous. Consequently in towns we find ourselves craving meat, fried food & vegetables. We haven't been too bothered about the lack of flushing toilets, lack of proper mattresses, only having one outfit of clothes or our general state of grubbyness on the trail.

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